o The farthest part of the club head from the golfer
o The closest part of the club head to the golfer
o The middle of the club head where the golf ball is intended to be struck
o The lines set into the club to promote spin on the golf ball
o The bottom of the golf club
• Perimeter Weighting
o The weighting around the perimeter of the club to help make a golf club more forgiving
o The part of the club where the shaft and club head are one
o The tapered tube which connects the club head to the golf grip
• Kick point
o The point where the shaft is flexed to achieve different ball flights
• Shaft flex
o The amount the shaft will flex under stress of the swing
o The synthetic rubber which allows the hands to hold the golf club with minimal slipping
• Grip wraps
o The layers of double sided tape put under the grip to make it bigger for an individual’s preference of feel
• Sweet Spot
o The place the club is designed to hit to give maximum distance and consistency
o The amount of angle on the face of the golf club. Each club will typically have 4 degrees more or less than the one before it in a traditional set. (If your 9 iron is at 40 degrees, your 8 iron would be at 36 degrees of loft)
o The length of the club. Each club is made different lengths to increase/decrease distance to ensure each club in your bag will go a different distance for a traditional set. Every 1/2” will be around the same distance gain as 4 less degrees of loft on the golf club.
• Lie Angle
o The angle that the shaft makes in relation to the ground at address. In a traditional set, the lie angle will change .5 degrees from iron too iron. This is to keep the sole of the golf club flat on the ground as each iron gets shorter or longer through the set.
o Offset is the amount the club face is set back from the hosel or neck.